<![CDATA[When you’re involved in the fashion industry, like we are, it’s wise to learn as much about the evolution of styles and progress of fashion, because some one may ask you an awkward question.

Savile row is a good place to start researching. As you will witness it has been the leading edge for innovations and fine tailoring for centuries.

Here are just a few excerpts, for your reading pleasure and information. There is a lot even we did not know.

1818: Burlington Arcade, a glassed-over esplanade of shops adjacent to Burlington House is constructed under the patronage of Lord George Cavendish who resides at No 1 Savile Row (now Gieves & Hawkes) where Brummell was a guest before his fall and exile in 1814.

1821: Joseph Ede, who would eventually give his name to Ede & Ravenscroft, assists
guv'nor William Webb as Royal robe maker when Prinny is finally crowned King George IV in particularly overwrought pomp and circumstance after enduring years of Regency deputising for his 'mad' father King George III. Walter Grant Norton opens his tailor's shop on the Strand. Norton & Sons would relocate to Lombard Street in the City and carve a niche for itself as the definitive City tailor before finally relocating to the Row where Norton & Sons remains today.

1846: James Poole's son Henry inherits the firm from his late father and earns his title of 'Founder of Savile Row' when he makes the Savile Row-side workshops of his father's tailoring shop at No 4 Old Burlington Street into a grand, Palladian entrance to a bespoke tailoring Pantheon called Henry Poole & Company at No 32 Savile Row.

1849: Henry Huntsman establishes his tailoring firm H. Huntsman & Sons specialising in riding breeches and sporting clothes. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert become customers as do the vast spider's web of European Royal houses connected to the Royal couple. Five of Queen Victoria's granddaughters subsequently become Queens of Spain, Romania, Greece, Norway and Empress of Russia.

1850: James Lock & Co invents a Savile Row icon: the Bowler Hat. The Bowler was commissioned by William Coke (a relative of the current Earl of Leicester) to be worn by his gamekeepers as protection against falling pheasants and poachers' sticks. The Bowler is still called a Coke at Lock.

1852: James Gieve acquires a partnership with Joseph Galt (established in 1823 and incorporating Meredith); christening the firm Galt & Gieves. His equally ambitious sister Elizabeth independently holds Queen Victoria's Royal Warrant as Dressmaker and Milliner (an honour she holds until her retirement in 1889 a year after James's death).

1858: Henry Poole earns the first of his Royal Warrants from the newly crowned Emperor Napoleon III of France to whom Poole and Baron de Rothschild advanced £10,000 to stage a coup in France to establish The Second Empire. At the accession of Emperor Napoleon and his Empress Josephine, Henry Poole erects an audacious gas illuminated eagle-and-coronet light show above the faÇade of No 36: a tradition he repeats on all great Royal occasions connected to customers of Henry Poole.

These historic facts have been extracted from our comprehensive data research bank for your reading pleasure and information.

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For luxurious silk ties, there’s a broader choice from colourful floral to more conservative stripes, by Shane McCoubrey, Victoria Richards, Timothy Everest and Patrick McMurray.

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<![CDATA[You may not see yourself as the lounging type. After all you lead a frantic life juggling kids/jobs/husbands/families/extended families/homes, just when are you going to find time to lounge on a Designer Guild’s covered day bed having what is sometimes called some quality ‘me time’. Probably never or at best 5 yrs ago before the kids/jobs/husbands/families et al completely took over your life.

We all know that if we make the effort when going out, we feel infinitely more confident about ourselves, the same thing goes with a new pair of shoes or a blow-dry. The issue is how do you do that in reverse?

Most people resort to some old pair of tracky bottoms that have definitely seen better days and some oversized t-shirt that belonged to some long lost boyfriend. It should work at helping us switch off and relax but if you don’t watch it you also ending up feeling like a rather large slob to boot. The reason this happens is that the tracky bottoms no doubt sport a rather fetching bit of elastic around the waist which coupled with the oversized top create a person who sounds like you, but sadly looks 2 dress sizes bigger. And this is the problem your precious bit of me time has left you feeling less then great about yourself, and instead of relaxing and making the most of the time you end up zipping round like person possessed finding ever more expensive remedies to help you lose the 2 dress sizes.

Here’s the thing you don’t need to. Why not put on something that is loosely fitted, comfortable and easy to wash but is also elegant, stylish and is designed to cover the bits you want covered and perhaps accentuate the bits you don’t feel so bad about. It will prompt a part of the brain to slow down, leave the lists, the homework, the frantic body overhaul list and allow you to feel good about yourself, thus relax and just be. How good does that sound?

Thankfully with the penetration of broadband and the rise of luxury brands online, luxury loungewear is but a click away. This previously unloved area of retail has seen a plethora of new brands emerging, notably in the US and Australia and latterly in the UK. Leading the field is Pyjama Room with it’s unique combination of stylish yet incredibly comfortable loungewear and pyjamas.

Why not start as you mean to go on and log on to Pyjama Room.

Emma Howarth is Co-Founder of Pyjama Room a Luxury Loungewear brand launched in 2007.]]>

<![CDATA[A gentleman as defined by principles. Do not clothes define principles in a man of gentle nature?

However, your class will often govern, because you wish to announce, you’re either subversive, or not and the world should know that.

So clothing becomes a way of expressing your philosophical or political beliefs. Or you’re just protecting your self from the elements, being functional, or can’t afford to lash out.

But let’s not forget from were the path to manhood began. Remember the lectures from Mum, “cleanliness is next to godliness” “manners make eth man” “respect your elders” “honesty is the best policy” “clean your finger nails” “wash behind your ears” don’t forget your handkerchief” Then came along the girlfriend, who said she’d love you truly, but some one pulled away the gang plank and life plunged you cruelly. “A lesson in love” who could you tells about it? Mum.

A lesson in love, the title of a big hit for Jimmy Barnes, he could belt out a rock and roll song. Hearing it on record is one thing seeing he on stage in action is another.

Mums prepare their sons’ for the burdensome life ahead she arms them with a set of principles to guide, foundational to a true gentleman.

Just like the tie that Mum bought, you, were in high school, now left to hang darkly, never to see the light of day.

Well open up your wardrobe, because school tie have never been far from the catwalks. Traditionalists wear nothing other than stripes, justly so, in keeping with their past education or even regimental status, an untainted style.

Then there is dandyism, which comes and goes like the tide, the tide nigh. on the crest of the wave, nojewellery for men not just cufflinks, bracelets and too; the name to look for is Vivienne Westwood

Now, a sincere dandy will have at his fingertips a fine silk handkerchief draped and, after flitting around, upon placing it in breast pocket, it is transformed into a pocket square: Just another form of decoration, but functional. The correct size 300mm x 300mm, imperial measurements one foot square, it must be silk.

And even while Beau Brummell’s ashes were being scattered, dandyism lived on.

Quote
The well-dressed man about town should wear clothes that are simple, functional and discreet’, George Bryan "Beau" Brummell commanded in the early 19th century. By advocating well-cut, tailored clothes, Brummell essentially invented what has come to be known as the "British look."

Brummell rejected 18th century frills (dandy man). His mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck cloth, survives today as the dark business suit, white shirt and silk tie

He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of his cravats. As he made his daily rounds from the park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes, Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often as three times a day. He preferred neck cloths that were lightly starched and carefully folded.

The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by everyone from many working men to his friend, the Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time, poorer men hoping to make their way in the world could easily imitate upper class fashion.

Well, perhaps climbing the ladder for some is a way out; but not for the likes of Jimmy Barnes.

Then, like now the dark suit and tie, dandy outfit have their place in society and, you don’t need to be a gentleman to wear either.

But let’s fall back on all the things Mum would preach lectureously.

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<![CDATA[Plus size teens and young adults had almost no choice in terms of chic and designer clothing, for many years. They mostly had to shop at ‘fat’ stores, and find the slightest conventional styles at the ‘plus size ladies or guys’ store. Though manufacturers and retail stores often referred to their plus size clothing ‘teen friendly’, actually the large floral print smock type blouses were not even much appealing to old ladies! It was then that the s/m/l frame of mind of designers finally realized that there are many men and women, and not just teens only, for whom s/m/l sizes do not fit.

Those to be the worst hit were the plus size pre-teens. At their embarrassing growing age, pre-teens had no option but to buy long and loose-fitting baggy jeans, and they got them altered, they grew out of them quickly. Swimming suits for pre-teens neither attractive nor properly sized and at the best the sizes were 14 or 16.

The 1970s was the period of approval and aware that a standard size did not fit everyone, and jean companies began extending their line to size 18 and 20, with some stylish alternatives. In early 1980s, Richard Simmons came on the fashion scene and brought identification plus size women and men, as much as anyone else, desire some fashionable clothes in the wardrobe too. Still, it wasn’t for another two decades that fashion actually embraced a teenage, young-looking plus size look.

Times have finally undergone the required change! Realization has struck the fashion world that there is a market for young, trendy, plus size clothing, with the Internet having become the delivery medium. In fact, the internet has played a great role in forcing preferences on the fashion manufacturers, who are gradually realizing the existence of profitable business in this regard.

Though plus size teens are still short of variety at the mall, the scenario is bound to change with the ever increasing popularity of the online plus size teen stores. The waif model is taking on a more realistic body form, as fashion designers are designing their styles around ‘normal’ women, instead of a size 0, and making it bigger for their plus size buyers.

The earlier view that plus size teens would rather not come out due to their weight problem, hence not needing fashion is being substituted with the understanding that with body acceptance an increased ability to handle weight issues comes along. Such a novel, encouraging way of looking at size and fashion will eventually help plus size teens feel better about themselves, both mentally and physically. It is obvious that the fashion world will welcome these new body types and retail potential, going on to enlarge their lines with plus size clothing made especially for plus size teens.

Shawn Kohan writes article on many topics including evening dresses and plus size clothes]]>